Day Three: Here comes the train.....to Jaffna!

As we get older and more susceptible to Health problems our baggage has changed from bikinis and skimpy clothes and maybe a Bandaid, to an impressive array of every sort of medication imaginable. Despite our substantial first aid kits (enough for an army to travel with!) last night we had to call for medical help for Anne. Within a couple of hours we had a very delightful and capable Doctor arrive, followed by two young nurses delivering medication and taking samples. Amazing service. There was some urgency as we were catching a 5.45 am train the next morning. With all of that attention the good news is that Anne recovered quickly.

We all managed to get up early enough to get to the Colombo train station in the pouring rain in time to catch the 5.45 am train. The rain had persisted all night and the tracks had turned into narrow rivers. 

The old train station, built by the Brits, looked the same as many British train stations but is in need of some care, which apparently is going to happen soon.

The train is very comfortable and we were able to turn the seats to face each other so we could chat for the entire seven hours of the journey. I'm writing this as I sit in this 'express' train: all of the trains on the Arrivals Board were classified as Slow or Express. Clearly the definition of Express was a little different to ours as we seem to be stopping at every station?!

Although the trip is supposed to be 6-7 hours, it can be longer if an elephant decides to sit on the track! I'm hoping that might happen as I'd like to see one of the Sri Lankan pygmy elephants.

As we left the Hotel so early, they provided us with a 'packed breakfast'. We each received a large gold box containing a sandwich, several pieces of fruit, some coconut water, a selection of small pastries and, somewhat surprisingly, a sachet of tomato sauce?!

Foolishly I expected to get a cup of tea from the buffet car (this is Ceylon after all!) but the only hot drink was Nescafe made with condensed milk!? Great if you're a sweet tooth!

There was much to see as we travelled sedately northwards. 

The most striking thing about the landscape was how GREEN everything is. With lots of rain the jungle was very dense, the rivers raging and the ricefields flooded. 

In contrast there were some white stupas or temples in a few of the ricefields, possibly to ensure a successful crop.

The birds were having a great time crowding around the rice farmers ploughing fields so they could devour the insects and bugs being churned up by their tractors or water buffaloes. More egrets than I've ever seen, a few pelicans, lots of ibis and then peacocks! I had forgotten that they are native to Sri Lanka as they fluttered around in the undergrowth.

We passed lots of small villages with simple houses, dirt roads, coconut palms and the inevitable Coca-Cola signs on the local food stalls.  There seemed to be dogs in every village, and in one spot, a number were lying together enjoying the sunshine as if they were having a party: very odd!

Occasionally the guy from the canteen arrives with an Airpot of sweet coffee. Jenny had bought a map of Sri Lanka - yes they do still exist!- and as Jan and Kerryn were trying to work out where exactly we are on the map Jan asked him. His response was "Sri Lanka!!!!" Very funny!

Later.....

Sadly no elephants detained us but we were glad to finally reach Jaffna. 

We jumped into the van with Chandana and Sid, our new guide, and did what all good tourists do - we went to the supermarket for essentials including tonic water, limes and a range of mysterious snacks. Then it was off to lunch at Mangos where we shared some delicious dosas, which we ate with our hands as you're supposed to.

Finally we arrived at The Thinnai Hotel: a very modern and well-equipped Hotel. 

We were greeted by a beautiful girl in traditional costume who placed a bindi in the middle of our foreheads as Jaffna is the central homeland of the Tamils, who are Hindu. Then she offered us some orange juice or a woodapple juice. Sid warned us that it smelt like old men's underpants! It was a very different taste admittedly: sort of a mixture of blue cheese and apple juice but is apparently very good for you.

Jan and I thought it was fine and had it again!

We are in suites so we have our own bedrooms which means no one has to endure my snoring! They are very modern and minimalist with kitchens that have no crockery or cutlery: maybe to force you to go to their restaurant?

They do have their own spas too which may be good after a hard day's sightseeing (if we can work out how to fill it!). 

We headed for a swim in the pool, even though there was constant drizzling. Then we made G&Ts and now we're about to head off for an early quick dinner before we collapse into bed: getting up at 4.20am means we're fading rapidly at the other end of the day!

Your tired and weary correspondent

Dianne

PS These beautiful women are a superb mural at The Thinnai