The final word.....and some useful contacts and recommendations

 Should you visit Sri Lanka?

Absolutely yes! Whatever type of tourist you are, there is something for you in Sri Lanka.

The trip described in this blog was not the usual tourist trail. The five of us had visited 11 years ago and covered some of the best known attractions then: the Temple of the Tooth and the Botanical Gardens in Kandy, Sigiriya Rock, Anuradhapura, Nuwara Eliya and so on. At that time it was considered too unsettled to visit the north and Jaffna.


This time we spent a week in the north: Jaffna and surrounds. Much of the time was spent seeing the sights but we also explored the dark side of Jaffna - the 30 years of Civil War and its impact for those living in the north east of the country. 


Not everyone's cup of tea, but it seemed important to understand the history in order to appreciate the current state of life for those living there. You do need a well-informed guide who is knowledgeable about the North and they aren't easy to find (see Sid's details below).

There is so much to see and enjoy in this country.



The food:

- The food is fabulous and varied and NOT HOT! Many foreigners seem to think that the food of this region is too chilli-based and impossible to eat. This is not true. We were constantly asked about how hot we wanted our food to be, and had no trouble being served food with the right amount of spice and heat in it.

(The photo is of egg hoppers for breakfast served with some chicken curry and chilli sambal and caramelised onions. Fabulous!)

When we ate out, the costs seemed reasonable and there are plenty of bakeries and cheaper food places everywhere.

 The family we visited near Jaffna who cooked our lunch on two days have a youtube channel to show how it's done. Ninthuja and her mother Male demonstrate the cooking of traditional Sri Lankan food. The address is youtube - VANNI VLOG


The curd and fresh fruit is outstanding, and it's often served with kettul treacle from a fishtail palm tree. 

The local food is varied and we tried everything! There are other more western alternatives available in many restaurants when you need a change. Club sandwiches were great.....and yes they serve chips!


If you're a wine buff you may have to lower your standards, but tonic water is readily available if you're into G&Ts as we were. And the local beer seemed to hit the spot for some.


- If you're into nature then the mountains, jungles, rainforests and beaches are for you. The tea mountains are a must: unlike any other mountain ranges I have seen and they have a lot of fascinating history surrounding them. And if you are of a more 'mature' age, as we are, you can still access all of the above with careful planning or the assistance of a good tour company.

-The climate is hot, humid and can be wet so choose the most appropriate time of year. We did have swimming pools at the hotels where we stayed and they really helped us survive the heat and humidity. And of course, we drank a lot of water every day to combat dehydration.

- The cities are the same as cities everywhere really, and there is a lot to buy. Our favourite shops include Barefoot for amazing textiles, Paradise Road for fabulous homewares and then there's a lot of precious gem stores for local stones.

- Since I returned I have been asked a few times if it was safe and I have to admit that I never had any experiences that made me feel unsafe at all. Jan and I wandered around the back streets and never felt threatened at all. I guess there are parts of some of the big cities that are best avoided as there are in all big cities. In general I felt very supported by the locals who went out of their way to help us.

Making the most of Sri Lanka

 It is, of course possible to travel independently around Sri Lanka if you have plenty of time and organisational skills!

 But here's some practical advice about who to contact if you want to tour Sri Lanka:

1. Chandana Gamage

www.travelinstyle.lk

Email: chandana@travelinstyle.lk


Chandana tailored the trip to our needs and interests. For example, we like to see and support projects which directly benefit the local people. A stay at Living Heritage in Koslanda where all of the staff are locals, a trip to the rainforest where the guides are local villagers and the food was supplied by a local woman, are good examples of these. 

2. If you read any of this blog you will have seen that Sid's knowledge and expertise as a tour guide was a valuable resource especially in the North.

He also has homestay accommodation and runs guided trekking tours in the Knuckle Mountains, a beautiful mountainous region in central Sri Lanka.

His contact details are:

Sid Elikewela

Mobile and WhatsApp : +94 77 435 4430

Website for accommodation: https://eaglescrestdumbara.com

Recommended reading:

Shankari Chandran:

Prior to our visit some of us had read some novels written by Shankari Chandran, an Australian Sri Lankan whose family are Sri Lankan Tamils. 

She is best known for her book 'Chai Time at Cinnamon Gardens' which describes a Nursing home set up in Sydney by a Sri Lankan couple who were refugees from the Civil War. It won the Miles Franklin Award in 2023.

An earlier book - Song of the Sun God (2017) - follows three generations of a Tamil family from the eve of independence from Britain until current times. As the country descends into Civil War difficult decisions are made by members of the family about their future. We found this book very informative when visiting Jaffna and it stimulated our interest in understanding more about the War. It's well-written and easy to read, although the subject matter is challenging.

Unfinished Business is a political thriller about a CIA agent sent to investigate the assassination of a Sri Lankan political journalist. It's set in the year 2009, the official end of the the Civil War, but delves into many aspects of the War and the personal story of the agent.

V.V. Ganeshananthan:

Following a recommendation, when I returned from Sri Lanka I read this novel. It's central character is a young girl desperate to become a doctor at the start of the Civil War and follows its impact on her career and her Tamil family. It is a tough read as it details many of the atrocities and challenges faced by her family over many years, and the difficult decisions that they were forced to make. I recommend this book if you want to get a clear understanding of these times and a 'personal' view about the impact  of the Civil War for Tamil families. 

Transport:

Using a tour company means they can tailor your trip to your interests and make best use of the time you have, as transport is provided. We didn't use any public transport, apart from the train trip to Jaffna and the occasional tuk tuk. I can't comment on the public buses etc as we didn't use them, although Zoe did travel on some whilst we were there, as she had other business, and had no trouble. People seem very helpful so I would imagine using public transport would be fine.

   









  


To be clear we are too old to be backpackers and were lucky enough to be in the position of staying in some beautiful  accommodation. Clearly travelling with a group makes these places more affordable. 








The information below is the contact details for the places we stayed:

Galle Face Hotel

2 Galle Road, Colombo 3, Sri Lanka

+94 11 754 1010                   https://gallefacehotel.com

 

Thinnai Hotel

Pallaly Road Thirunelveli, 86 Palaly Rd, 40000, Sri Lanka

+94 77 455 8220                 https://thethinnai.com

Jetwings Lakehouse

Yapagama, Wijaya Kumaratunga Mawatha, Dambulla 21100, Sri Lanka

+94 662 040 700                https://www,jetwinghotels.com/jetwinglake/#gref

 

Living Heritage

Egodawatte Estate, Naulla, Koslanda, UVA 90190, Sri Lanka                          Host: Lucy

+94 779 355 785

Email: info@koslanda.com          https://www.koslanda.com

 

Why House

Mihiripenna Meegahawatte, Road, Unawatuna 80600, Sri Lanka                Host: Henrietta

+94 912 227 599                https://www.whyhousesrilanka.com

Wallawwa

Minuwangoda-Gampaha-Miriswatta Rd, Kotugoda, Katunayake, 11450, Sri Lanka

+94 77 363 8381

 

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